May 4, 2000
FOUR SEASONS

Four Seasons lets Asian cuisines stand out

By MERIDITH FORD
Journal Restaurant Reviewer
     PROVIDENCE -- Four Seasons, four countries, four cuisines. Four Seasons Restaurant, in the Ocean State Plaza, embraces the food of Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and China with finesse and flavor.
     And although the lines of distinction between these similar, yet differing, cuisines become more and more blurred by many Asian restaurants in the United States eager to accommodate the Western palate, Four Seasons does a very good job of making the distinction in a flavorfully fulfilling way. 
     Thailand has a rich culinary history stemming from a strong cultural identity and the fact that it has never been colonized. Rice, noodles, the contrasting use of sweet and sour, hot chilies, coriander, coconut, basil and garlic characterize the flavors of many Thai dishes.
     A perennial favorite of mine is the Thai-style natang: I like to drench the rice cakes with the soup-like sauce of ground pork and coconut milk until the cakes are soft on the inside, yet still crunchy on the edges.
     I tried pad Thai, the thin rice noodle dish with scallions, crunchy bean sprouts, chopped peanuts and lime juice served with tender sauteed chicken (shrimp, beef, pork, vegetable or a combination are also offered). This is one of my favorite dishes, and Four Seasons's version is one of the best I've tasted because the nutty flavor of the peanuts and bean sprouts is offset by the delicateness of the noodles.
     There are many versions of chicken wings at Four Seasons, and I found the lemon grass (a favored Cambodian herb) chicken wings in a thick, sweet, peppered peanut sauce with whole peanuts and minced lemon grass to be one of the best dishes we tried. The wings are slightly crispy around the edges and the chicken underneath is very tender; I liked the wings toward the bottom of the platter-sized serving best because they had soaked up so much of the rich sauce. 
     We also tried two of the many soups offered. Put the emphasis on hot in Four Seasons's hot and sour soup -- it's thick and full of the egg and bamboo shoots I'm used to -- but with a robust peppery flavor. Won ton soup is so simple and satisfying that I would return to Four Seasons based just on their version of this Chinese specialty. The clear, thin broth was full of strong chicken flavor with strips of scallions and pork dancing amid the enormous, tender won ton dumplings.
     Vietnamese is one of the most interesting of the Southeast Asian cuisines because of the many cultures that have dominated this country over the centuries. The Chinese ruled Vietnam for a millennium, and in the food there is a lot of Chinese technique -- such as the many stir fries -- mixed with indigenous ingredients, French finesse and the use of Indian spices from the north.
     A common habit in Vietnamese cooking is to wrap noodles or meats in lettuce with vegetables and herbs, called banh hoi. Four Seasons offers a banh hoi of tender, seasoned chicken with soft rice noodles, bean sprouts, crisp cucumber slices and licorice-like Thai basil, all of which can be wrapped in leaf lettuce.
    Vietnamese style nime chow (made with mint instead of Thai basil) are fresh spring rolls filled with tiny shrimps, lettuce and bean sprouts, and are served, as many dishes are, with a vinegary sweet peanut sauce for dipping. 
    Four Seasons has more to offer than terrific food. In a family-style atmosphere, the attentive waitstaff serves up generous doses of hospitality as well, and children are heartily welcomed. My daughter was delighted when one of the staff decided to tease her by removing her favorite stuffed dog from the table, placing it on a service tray and pretending that it was his own. The atmosphere is relaxed and easy-going, although the pace of service is fast.
     Most items on the menu are under $10, and in addition to the varied menu, there are daily luncheon specials. 
     Ancient Thai tradition reveres food, giving it an important role in daily life that seems almost nonexistent in our too-busy-to-sit-down-to-dinner society. At Four Seasons, the act of sharing good food -- together as a family, or with friends -- is delectable and fun.