August 16, 2001
10 STEAK & SUSHI
From 'what?' to 'wow!' in one sizzling ride


By MERIDITH FORD
Journal Restaurant Reviewer

PROVIDENCE -- When I first heard about the concept for 10 Steak and Sushi, I thought, ``What?''

After dining there, I am thinking, ``Wow.'' Wow in a very big way.

Leave it to John Elkhay, the charismatic chef and co-owner of XO Cafe, to come up with the most unlikely of restaurant concepts -- and pull it off.

Elkhay is innovative, and XO has long been one of my favorite places to dine in Providence. It has an eclectic flair, with a funky menu and excellently prepared food.

10 is like XO on LSD. While other restaurants are placing their creative ducks in a tidy little row, Elkhay seems to have tossed his ideas in the air and chosen the first 20 that landed.

Funky, fun, sophisticated, sexy -- it's hip, but laid-back. There's an exotic pulse to the atmosphere, but it never goes too far over the top. It's way, way out there, and yet somehow quietly curbed.

The tiny window front of its 55 Pine St. building, like its name, is deceiving. I wasn't sure what to think, either, of the ``Club 10'' plaque in the foyer, graced with the names of diners who have actually eaten the 40-ounce porterhouse on the menu (after dining at 10, I'm determined to become a member).

Inside, however, the bar welcomes you with with calming hues of teal and cobalt blue, while vibrant Latin music gives off a circus of sounds. A circular banquette with plush blue and white upholstery toward the front of the rectangular-shaped room is an inviting perch.

The blue-on-blue color scheme is reflected in everything, from the menu to the salt in the shakers, to the tile in the bathrooms, where the sound effects of the rain forest or roller-coaster rides soothe you as you powder your nose.

In the dining room, closely placed tables are set with white linen and tiny, decorative table lamps. A partition decorated with undulating ironwork separates the dining area from the bar. At the end of the bar is a small sushi bar bathed in subdued orange-red light.

The menu's fun-to-read

Elkhay's humor is reflected throughout the menu, from the dressed-up version of macaroni and cheese au gratin ``with a college education,'' to the ``BIG !@#* baked potato loaded.'' Having picked the wine list, he describes the selections as ``red heads'' and ``blondes,'' with sensual descriptions such as ``soft and supple'' and ``easy.'' He clearly needs no tips on creativity.

With all this to take in, it's amazing that the food, cooked by chef de cuisine Erik Rollings, is just as sumptuous as everything else.

The sushi and appetizer side of the menu is sleek, with sophisticated offerings such as designer sushi rolls (created by sushi chef Sang Nguyen) and ceviche. The entree side takes on a down-home appeal with prime steaks the size of your head and items like the ``death by butter'' au gratin potatoes.

There's also a section touting ``green things'' such as mixed greens or tomato-and-mozzarella salad.

I settled into several sushi selections, after perusing the menu while sipping a mojito -- a girlie-drink concoction of crushed ice, rum, sugar syrup and mint served in a tall glass garnished with more mint and a skinny slice of sugar cane.

Spider maki, a rice roll wrapped with avocado, cucumber and caviar, was highlighted by the crunchiness of soft-shell crab to contrast with its buttery flavor and texture. The sweet flavor of Maine lobster mingled with the richness of smoked salmon, as well as crunchy, fresh asparagus and more avocado and caviar.

Away from the Asian influence of the sushi offerings, the appetizers take on an exotic dimension, with borrowings that range from Latin America to Ipswich clams. Juicy skewers of ginger beef and chicken in a peanut-lime marinade, as well as a coconut-encrusted shrimp, take on an island flavor -- not just because of their mellow taste (perked up by the outstanding mango chutney and sesame soy sauces that accompany them) -- but in how they are served. The generously portioned skewers (Elkhay clearly needs no tips on generosity, either) come over a grilled, lit box that looks a little like a tikki-lounge toy for adults.

The tuna ceviche (raw fish marinated in lime juice) was smoother than butter, with hints of lemon grass, cilantro and coconut. It is dramatically served with sensuously shaped slivers of fried plaintains in a half-coconut shell perched on a bed of chipped ice. (We took a steak knife to the coconut meat after eating all the ceviche --and our deft waitress didn't even blink.)

Steak and potatoes, big time

The steaks are substantial at 10, and reading over their menu descriptions, I suddenly found myself in a red-meat kind of mood. A 14-ounce prime New York sirloin, juicy and dripping with char-grilled flavor, satisfied that craving.

Death-by-butter potatoes -- enough at least for four people -- are downright devilish: a crock pot full of creamy smashed potatoes is dripping with pools of butter and grated cheese broiled on top. Ditto the devilishness in the creamed spinach, served up in a creamy, rich heap.

All this goes well with the grilled meatloaf -- huge slabs of richly flavored ground sirloin dressed with a piquant demi glace, more smashed potatoes, and onion strings that were crunchy and soft at the same time.

Some of the waitstaff had all evening been sporting 3-D glasses, and after ordering dessert, it was easy to figure out why: The dessert menu is three-dimensionally photographed. Beautiful 3-D photographs of creme brulee and three-chocolate mousse made my mouth water (plus, it's a hoot wearing the glasses).

A not-too-rich chocolate souffle came piping hot, and our waitress scooped out a large portion with a spoon and drizzled a rich creme Anglaise (custard sauce) over the inside.

Cheryl Bready, who owns the restaurant with her husband Richard and Elkhay (they're also partners at XO), lends her name to a slice of wedding cake that was at least a foot high -- maybe higher. We got lots of stares from neighboring tables. So much so that -- knowing we'd never eat it all anyway -- we finally gave half of it to the envious man at the table next to us.

Appetizers are $7 to $12; sushi orders are $4 to $6.50; designer sushi rolls are $6.50 to $14. Entrees -- steaks and fish selections -- are $18 to $33, with sides ranging from $5 to $7. Desserts are $8 to $12.

The eclectic, well-selected wine list has bottles ranging from $24 to $495.

Roller-coaster sounds are appropriate for 10; the restaurant is a little like a roller-coaster ride. Smooth on the uphill, with the anticipation that something really exciting is about to hit you right in the face -- and then the drop of speed that takes you for loop-de-loops.

10 Steak & Sushi, 55 Pine Street, Providence, 453-2333. Casually upscale. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Smoking in bar area only. Open Mon-Thu for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Sat from 5 to 11 p.m. Sushi bar is open one hour past closing Mon-Sat. V, MC, AM, DC. On-street parking and nearby lots, with complimentary valet parking Thu-Sat. No highchairs or booster seats. $$$$.