October 11, 2001
RISTORANTE PIZZICO
A window on the essence of Italian cooking


By MERIDITH FORD
Journal Restaurant Reviewer

PROVIDENCE

There's a scene early in the movie Victor/Victoria in which the character played by Julie Andrews is so down and out, she stares lustily through the windows of a Paris restaurant, praying for a bite.

Few times in my life have I actually wanted to stare through the windows of a restaurant, my nose pressed against the glass, to catch a glimpse of the food other people were eating. I love food, but rarely do I think it's worth ogling.

Ristorante Pizzico is an exception. I would stare with no shame through its large plate-glass windows.

The restaurant conjures rustic images of Italy. An exposed brick wall on one side is bathed in light caramel tones, an opposite wall in a zesty salmon color that warms the low-lit room. The space is actually split down the middle, with small, intimate dining rooms on both sides and a tiny bar lined with burnished wood at the back of the room.

The food conjures rustic images of Italy as well. In a city with more Italian restaurants than you can shake a stick at, Ristorante Pizzico stands among a handful that truly embody the simple flavors and traditions of Italian cuisine.

Chef Warley Araujo, originally from Brazil, knows how to put authentic Italian flavors and presentation into a neat package. The meals here draw on the essence of each component's flavor, as well as being lovely to look at, although they never come close to being complicated or fussy. It's as if the food gods said, ``Let there be food,'' and the meals at Pizzico appeared, becoming the example for all things to come.

For instance, a saute of mushrooms mixed with scallions, garlic and fresh, finely chopped tomatoes and savory herbs is beautifully presented on a large oval plate, the fresh flavors of the tomatoes and herbs melding beautifully with the nutty caramel taste of roasted shallots. The whole affair is served over thin, buttery slices of potato bread soaked in the juices from the pan.

Near perfection

Many of the dishes that can be served as appetizers are large and are actually made for the ``center of the table.''

Thin slices of bresaola, a dry-aged beef, are surrounded by a mound of arugula and served with thin, rectangular-shaped shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. This is the only dish that fell short in an evening that otherwise was one of perfection. The overly large leaves of arugula were bitter, and lacked the nuttiness that makes this green so delectable. And although they were drizzled with lemon juice and olive oil, it was hardly enough to moisten them or add flavor.

In the end, though, I was happy to sandwich a few leaves between the meat and cheese and wait for the next course.

The pasta dishes that make up so much of the entree selections are simple and straightforward, and the menu reads like the curriculum from a ``how to cook all things Italian'' course. Choices run from light offerings such as angel-hair pasta with fresh tomatoes, garlic and basil to heavier items such as tortellini stuffed with blue cheese in cream-and-vodka pink sauce.

Somewhere in the middle was a dish of mushroom ravioli, stuffed with mushrooms (mostly porcinis) and served in a saute of more mushrooms, prosciutto and toasted pecans -- all floating in an ethereally light cream sauce. So often this dish is a miserable failure -- the cream sauce can be much too thick, the ravioli gummy and heavy. But here they were light little pillows filled with earthy mushroom flavor; the sauce was rich, yet light, and laced with the salty flavor of the prosciutto and the crunchy richness of the pecans.

Equally as impressive was a fillet of sole encrusted in horseradish and pistachio nuts and served in a sauce of chopped tomatoes, garlic, lemon and white wine. The garden-fresh, tart flavor of the tomatoes framed the subtle flavor of the fish, with just a dash of taste from the nuts and horseradish to top things off.

Impressive wine list

All evening I had been sipping a glass of prosecco, the sparkling Italian wine that has been making such a comeback on many restaurants' import lists, although I rarely see it on menus in Providence. Too bad, because its biting sweetness makes for a wonderful aperitif.

The rest of the wine list at Pizzico is extremely impressive, with many select wines from Italy that were obviously chosen to pair wonderfully with the food. Bottles range from $20 to $600, but most are $25 to $50.

For dessert, it was difficult to decide which was better -- the creamy iciness of an imported hazelnut gelato, or the quaint charm of the torta della nonna (a custardy pie laced with lemon and speckled with toasted almonds). When in doubt, combine. The result was yummy.

Appetizers, center-of-the-table dishes, salads and soups are $4.50 to $13.75; entrees are $11.95 to $23.95. Entree-sized salads are $11.95 to $15.95. Desserts are $6.

Restaurant Pizzico is something that's hard to find these days: a sure bet. Something to count on -- whether you're standing on the outside staring in, or inside, warm, toasty and satisfied.

Ristorante Pizzico, 762 Hope St., Providence, 421-4114. Casually upscale. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Open Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sat-Sun for lunch from noon to 3 p.m., Sat-Sun for dinner 5 to 10:30 p.m., Sun for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. No smoking. On-street parking. V, MC, AM, DC. Highchairs and booster seats available. $$.