November 15, 2001
SALVATION CAFE
Newport dining without breaking the bank
Visits to Italian, Indian and multi-ethnic restaurants remind our critic of her favorite movies

By MERIDITH FORD
Journal Restaurant Reviewer

For me, the words Newport and restaurants conjure images of grand mansions and lavish antique inns, serving food that a decade ago would have been called ``continental cuisine'' -- well-prepared and classically European-influenced; decidedly expensive.

I went in search of another Newport; one that goes beyond the usual serving of the classics -- one that ventures into a more common realm for a more commonly budgeted diner. And one without a tuxedoed waiter, filet mignon or 300-bottle wine list in sight.

Seeking Salvation

Salvation Cafe is deceiving. The front of this bohemian enclave looks like a tiny cafe, replete with deco art -- from velvet curtains to zebra-striped booth chairs -- but once inside it's like a maze that opens up into two large dining rooms, called the pagoda room and the tikki lounge.

Admittedly, both rooms look like afterthoughts -- outdoor seating now enclosed to accommodate more people. A necessity, from the number of people eating there on my visit.

Most of the offerings are a multi-ethnic blend of East-meets-West, with lots of layovers (particularly Southwestern ones) in between, from chef Alex Hart Nibbrig, a 1996 graduate of Johnson & Wales University who's worked at Cheekey Monkey in Newport and the Gatehouse in Providence.

Many are dishes are Asian, including an appetizer special of Thai fish cakes. In traditional Thai fashion, tiny cakes of minced fish were lightly fried and served with a bold red curry sauce. The fiery essence of the sauce held most of this dish's flavor, though, and the cakes' texture was a little too gummy.

After reading over the menu, I was craving the deep, rustic flavor of poblano chiles touted in a sauce that came with a quesadilla. Filled with juicy chicken and melted cheese, it was smothered in the sauce, about which I came away undecided: It was rich and creamy (what's not to like?), but ultimately lacked the flavor of the poblanos I was seeking.

A sirloin steak, encrusted with red chiles, lacked flavor and proved a little too tough. The garlic mashed potatoes served with it, though, were worth the price of the meal: Smashed, rather than mashed, with bits of buttery potato laced with heavy hits of garlic and cream.

Large, plump ravioli were filled with an intriguing espresso-and-porcini filling and dressed with a semi-sweet sauce that smacked of cinnamon and hints of sage. Drops of a fiery chile infusion were the perfect frame for a dish that would have otherwise been too sweet. Instead, it was perfect.

Kudos to Salvation Cafe for creating a strong lineup of house-made desserts. All seasonally inspired, they were warming and fulfilling.

A strudel, made here with a flaky puff pastry instead of the traditional strudel dough, was filled with caramelized figs and bits of pecans. It was served hot with a maple ice cream that melted and oozed, creating a creamy sauce and an icy backdrop for the soft flavors of dough and fruit.

A free-formed pear tart looked like a giant purse bursting with fresh pears, sugar and cinnamon. The real draw here, though, was a pumpkin ice cream -- rich, yet a little icy, and blasted with the full-blown flavor of pumpkin -- framed by the sweetness of a maple-flavored creme Anglaise (a cream sauce).

There is a moderate wine list, with bottles from $19 to $27 and a list of funky cocktails from $4 to $7. Appetizers are $3.50 to $9; entrees are $8.50 to $20. Desserts are $5.50 to $6.50.

With its funky, lowbeat atmosphere and creatively fused food, Salvation Cafe reminded me of the movie equivalent of an odd cross between Austin Powers and Butterflies are Free: Fun, inspired, slightly flawed -- and in the end, well worth my time.

Salvation Cafe, 140 Broadway, Newport, 847-2620. Casual. Reservations accepted for parties of 10 or more. Bathrooms are wheelchair accessible. Smoking section; tikki lounge is all smoking. Open Sun-Thu 5 to 10 p.m., Fri-Sat 5 to 11 p.m. V, MC, AM. Parking in lot in rear of building or on-street. Highchairs and booster seats available. $$.