November 29, 2001
PARAGON
Paragon at Foxwoods is close to a sure bet


By MERIDITH FORD
Journal Restaurant Reviewer

LEDYARD, Conn.

Getting a Friday or Saturday night reservation at Paragon, on the 24th floor of the Grand Pequot Towers hotel at Foxwoods Resort Casino, is the dining equivalent of getting tickets to The Producers on Broadway. I tried, and was told I'd have to wait six months.

I finally caved and made reservations for a Thursday night instead. Weeknights seem to be much less in demand.

Paragon: The ideal. Perfection. A perfect model. These are strong words to link to the meaning of a restaurant's name.

For the most part, Paragon lives up to its name, with a few minor kinks in its aspiring armor.

There's a kind of wacky austerity to the decor, and consequently the ambiance, at Paragon. It's like repression on drugs. It's lavish, with deep tones of azure blue reflected everywhere in a globe theme, but off-putting -- so intent on impressing that it goes over the top. Not surprising, since it's part of a casino.

A map of the world is etched into detailed marble in the floor of the foyer, and an enormous blue globe is at the center of the dining room's entrance, behind the bar. A winding staircase leads upstairs to a small casino; a glossy piano is almost hidden behind the bar.

The dining room is calmer, although the wild-game motif painted in blue and rust inset in the ceiling had me feeling a little on guard. Strains of standards from the piano trickle into the large space, softening the mood. The tables are an oddity -- they are too large and spaced too far apart to create any kind of intimacy. In short, Paragon is not the restaurant where I would want to pop the question.

On the main menu

The menu, like the decor, is meant to impress. It's a mix of classically continental (there's that globe theme again) cuisine, but with splashes of innovation from chef Scott Mickelson. There's also a second menu that focuses on Asian offerings such as wok-fried pork chops with a spicy orange-and-red chile sauce, and steamed little neck clams with black bean sauce. A seasonal chef's tasting menu is also offered.

I didn't stray from the main menu. Between uninspired menu offerings of shrimp cocktail and clams casino was an antipasto platter too enticing to pass up. It came resplendently laid out on a small platter, with a teepee of bread sticks tied together with a pink-and-white orchid. Salami, velvety prosciutto, mild pepperoni -- all were perfect mates for provolone cheese and mozzarella boconccini (little balls of mozzarella), as well as a plump fresh fig and a zippy marinade of red and yellow peppers dotted with black sesame seeds.

Another appetizer, escargot bourguignonne, was a well-constructed hodgepodge of tender snails, spinach and chopped tomatoes in a smoky sauce that hinted of sherry. The whole design was beautifully laid out, bursting like a cornucopia from a flaky, buttery shell of brioche.

I can't help but mention here the oddness of some of the menu notes. Terms such as ``meat half glaze'' (which I assume means demi-glace, a rich brown sauce) and ``natural sauce'' are thrown around loosely. Bourguignonne is used to describe the aforementioned snails in shallots and white wine, but bourguignonne is made with red wine. Granted, this didn't affect the taste of any of the dishes, but it set me wondering.

A sampling of hors d'oeuvres

Before our appetizers came to the table, we were offered a sip of champagne and a tasting of hors d'oeuvres: a canape of smoked salmon under a rosette of a creamy maytag blue cheese, a crispy, petite vegetable spring roll and -- the best of the trio -- a pork satay in a black bean sauce.

Some of the more exciting things on the menu were tableside preparations, including a Caesar salad. It had been at least 10 years since I had seen a tableside preparation of this classic salad, and I couldn't wait. Our server had a deft hand; in a large wooden bowl she mixed all the ingredients for the dressing, then added romaine lettuce, Parmesan cheese and anchovies. As impressive as all this was, the end result was disappointing: The flavor of olive oil overpowered everything else.

The description of grilled corn and goat-and-cheddar-cheese grits made my mouth tingle, and so I ordered the Cornish hen with which it was served, just so I could taste them. With a saute of mushrooms and broccoli rabe, this dish was a perfect backdrop for an autumn chill. The hen was succulent and juicy, with a crispy skin and full of gamey flavor. As for the grits: creamy, full of flashy flavor from the cheeses.

Tournedos of beef, in a richly layered truffle sauce, were buttery-textured and full of robust flavor. A thin slice of goose liver pate and the dark, chocolate flavor of slivered truffles crowned the dish.

Summery desserts

The desserts seemed seasonally askew, using mostly summer fruits. And while I couldn't complain about the velvety texture of a creme brulee or the light, fluffy sweetness of whipped cream in a Napoleon stacked with fresh raspberries, I longed for something more seasonally inspired. Still, the plates were decked out with a skilled hand -- delicate pipings of chocolate framed bright sauces of raspberry and pineapple.

The wine list is extensive, with bottles ranging from $35 to $3,500. Appetizers, including soups and salads, are $8 to $18. There are classic pasta selections from $14 to $19. Entrees, including items on the ``from the east'' selections are $19 to $42, with most between $25 and $30. Desserts are $9. There also is a tasting menu with five courses and four wines for $95 or without the wines for $80.

I'm glad I didn't have to wait six months to eat at Paragon. Despite its quirks, the well-prepared food and excellent service make it a destination the next time I visit Foxwoods.

Paragon, in the Foxwoods Resort Casino, 24th floor of the Grand Pequot Towers, Mashantucket, Conn. (800) 752-9244. Upscale. Reservations recommended. Wheelchair accessible. Open dinner only, 6-11 p.m. Wed. through Sun. Smoking tables; no cigar or pipe smoking in main dining room, but permitted in the cocktail lounge. Free garages and self-park lots; valet parking available. V, MC, AM, DC, DIS. Highchairs available. SSSS.