Journal Restaurant Reviewer
PROVIDENCE -- I so loved the East Side when I first moved to Providence; my husband and I had a tidy little apartment on Prospect Street and ventured to Thayer Street frequently to eat and take in a movie at the Avon Cinema.

Since Sanjiv Dhar took ownership in 1990, the food has had dramatic improvements; it's the best Indian food I've tasted in Providence. A soft-spoken man with a gentle demeanor, he has always welcomed us warmly.

When we arrived recently on a weekend evening, he remembered us (even though we hadn't had the opportunity to eat there for a couple of years). And not because he knew us by name, but because he remembered our faces. He seemed happy to have us back.

Time has offered few changes, although the front of the dining room has been reconfigured slightly to better accommodate a new front desk. The food has done nothing but improve. Overall, the dishes we tried were better than we remembered, with a spicier, richer flavor. And the breads were as outstanding as always.

Kabob-n-Curry's crispy pappadam, the lentil and black pepper crackers served before the meal in most Indian restaurants, seems fresher than others I've tried. It's always served with a mint puree-like chutney, onion chutney, and a tamarind puree called imli. I love to smear the crackers with the refreshing mint and pungent tamarind, then top that with a heaping portion of the onion chutney. It's cool and hot at the same time, with a spicy edge to it.

A vegetarian platter of appetizers -- triangular-shaped samosa pastries filled with spicy mashed potatoes and peas, chickpea pakora fritters made with both potatoes and cheese, and spicy potato patties called tikki -- were sooo satisfying with a Kingfisher beer. An English beer, its strong, yeasty flavor pairs perfectly with the spiciness of the food.

A dark, rich tomato soup was thinner than an American version, and full of pungent tomato flavor accented with the boldness of cumin and pepper.

Kabob-N-Curry's breads have always been outstanding; that coupled with the fact that Indian breads are among my favorites made it easy for me to try the poori and a cilantro-and-garlic naan.

The poori came to the table piping hot; I used my fingers to punch a hole in the center of the puffy, soft, deep-fried wheat rounds to let the steam escape. The sweet smell of wheat and oil escaped with the steam; I could barely wait until they were cool enough to eat. The tandoori-baked naan was laced with the pepper-and-lime flavor of the cilantro and heaped with minced garlic. Both were perfection.

The menu has a wide variety of mostly eastern and northern Indian specialties; it would take several, if not many, visits before you'd ever have to eat something twice.

I stayed with a familiar favorite -- shahi panir, a thick, rich tomato sauce engulfing chunks of tender house-made panir cheese (a soft-textured cow's milk cheese), slices of green peppers, onions, slivered almonds and raisins. Another entree -- chicken masala, brimming with large chunks of tikka chicken (spicy, marinated, grilled chicken) and tomato sauce -- was equally as good.

The entrees are served with the fluffiest rice I've ever eaten; it's scented with saffron and perfect for absorbing the luxuriant sauces.

Indian desserts are among some of the most exotic in my experience, and Kabob-n-Curry offers several that are worth a taste. My favorite is galub jamun, a sort of warm, yeasty, round dumpling served in a thin sugar syrup laced with rose water and cardamom. There's also vanilla ice cream with mango sauce and pistachio ice cream on the menu.

The service flows with few, if any flaws. The waiters work in a seamless fashion, helping each other and taking turns greeting guests. Everyone who works in the dining room seems to reflect Dhar's courteous and calm manner.

The appetizers are between $2 and $8, breads are around $2 (a basket of varied selections is $5); entrees are roughly $8 to $13. Desserts are between $2 and $3. I noticed the addition of a few wines; most are between $12 and $20.

It was a busy evening, but by the time we were leaving, Dhar was gone. Too bad. I would have liked to thank him for such a beautifully prepared meal, and all those we'd had in times past. On second thought, I guess I'm doing that now.