By MERIDITH FORD
Journal Restaurant Critic

PROVIDENCE -- Starting around 7 p.m. and ending somewhere near 10:30, the Saturday-night crowd at Eclectic Grille is like a throng of hungry revelers. Since the place doesn't take reservations on weekends, it's evident they would rather eat there than go anywhere else in town.

There's good reason. Even with the introduction last month of a new chef -- a move that must be made with trepidation in a well-established restaurant -- the food at this Federal Hill favorite has never been better.

The new chef, David Spirito, carries on the restaurant's tradition of serving classic dishes with a touch of creative fervor. He has a knack for combining ingredients, knowing when to make a subtle statement -- as with a simple roasted chicken in a barbecue sauce of olives and dates -- and when to surprise with a foie gras highlighted by roasted pineapple.

The restaurant first opened in 1996 down the street, where Gracie's now resides, to overnight success. In 1998, owners Anthony and Karen Rocchio, and Joe Rocchio (who was also the chef, but is no longer associated with the restaurant), moved to a spiffier, more tony spot up the street.

The new, larger space filled quickly with loyal customers. French windows that open to the street framed by large pottery pots of plants, warm rustic tones of yellow and mustard inside, a sleek, sophisticated bar and an open kitchen framed in deco glass were as much a part of the successful move as the well-crafted food.

But the back dining room lacks any real character -- it's an open space that's too open for a trattoria -- so it is the food (and hopefully a seat in front of one of the windows) that draws me; the foie gras, in particular.

Buttery, skinless bliss

Foie gras is like the little girl with the curl in the middle of her forehead: When it is good it is very, very good and when it is bad it is horrid. No worry of the latter coming from Spirito's kitchen. He places a dainty slice of satin-textured foie gras next to a wedge of moist, sweet roasted pineapple, then slaps the whole thing onto a swirl of mashed potatoes, which are a bit of heaven unto themselves.

Let me explain the importance of those potatoes. These are not run-of-the-mill mashed potatoes; they are velvety smooth, creamy, buttery -- and not a fleck of red bliss skin in sight. Spirito evidently believes, as do I, that "smashed" potatoes -- the lumpy kind with the skin still on -- have seen their 15 minutes of fame.

But the potatoes aren't even the best thing on this plate. An arugula salad was spruced up nicely with bits of tangy goat cheese, crunchy candied walnuts and sweet, caramel-like dates, but the star of the show was the fennel vinaigrette that dressed it. The sweet, fragrant anise-like flavor of the fennel -- mellowed here through toasting -- was a perfect match for the nuttiness of the arugula.

In a second appetizer, a large, meaty portobello mushroom cap -- juicy and tender -- topped a small square of soft polenta, surrounded by salad greens. Again, Spirito's work soars with the medley of flavors: plump, tart, dried cherries and sharp, bold blue cheese in counterpoint to the mushroom and polenta.

Tender ministrations

After having waited nearly an hour and 15 minutes for our table, these were reward enough. But the apt waiter trumped the kitchen's ace -- he moved effortlessly through the room, treating us at first with the kind of care given to desert nomads seeking water, then later with the relaxed skill of someone who is comfortable and happy in his duties.

He was influential in choosing a pasta dish for us -- after we whittled the choices to tortelloni or baked rigatoni and still couldn't decide, he proclaimed, "I'll surprise you."

What came were four giant tortelloni, stuffed with chicken and the mild, rustic flavor of fontina cheese -- the pasta folded and wrapped like a present. Smoky Marsala wine melds with the sweet creaminess of mascarpone cheese in a sauce christened with roasted pine nuts and thyme.

Chicken has become an entree that sits like a wallflower on a menu, always passed over for more popular selections of beef, veal and even fish. But Spirito gives chicken a million-dollar makeover with the rustic, layered flavoring of a barbecue sauce made from salty green olives and sugary dates. This chicken is tender, juicy and drips flavor into more of those ever-luscious mashed potatoes. The dish is crowned with sprigs of grilled scallions.

By dessert, we were harder to please. The wait for our table had advanced the evening past our bedtimes.

Not a problem. A dessert of apricot dumplings was presented lavishly on a large, rectangular plate drizzled with a tart raspberry coulis. In the plate's center, a smooth, pristine scoop of pear sorbet was a cool, refreshing end to a delightful meal.

Eclectic Grille, 245 Atwells Ave., Providence, 831-8010. Casually upscale. Reservations for 6 or more Sun-Thu only. Wheelchair accessible. Mon-Thu 5 to 10 p.m., Fri-Sat from 5 to 11 p.m. and Sun from 4:30 to 9 p.m. Smoking allowed in the bar. Complimentary valet parking. V, MC, AM, DIS, DC. Highchairs available. $$$.

Appetizers, soups and salads are $7 to $18; Entrees, including pasta dishes, are $16 to $30. Desserts are made in-house and are $5 to $7.