A classic bistro tucked away in Newport

By PAM THOMAS
Journal Staff Writer

• See the menu: appetizers, entrees.

In a little restaurant off Broadway, Tucker Harris has fashioned a snug oasis of 1930s Paris.

On a cold winter night, it's a pleasure to step inside Tucker's Bistro and be enveloped in an almost over-the-top feast for the senses.

Billie Holiday or Edith Piaf is singing. The scarlet walls are covered in gold-framed oil paintings of various sizes. Tiny white lights twinkle from chandeliers that seem to be made of satin ribbon. Stemware sparkles on white-covered tables. Lavish chintz draperies swoop around the picture windows. Oriental rugs pamper your feet.

Don't you just love a romantic restaurant?

It's easy to imagine a couple having a cocktail on the side of the restaurant that's an intimate bar; he orders her a cocktail and in the bottom is a ring. They repair to the other side to celebrate, in the cozy main dining room with about 12 tables, each with a tiny lamp whose golden glow makes her diamond sparkle. They order champagne and dig into a menu of items perfect for a special occasion.

But don't get the idea that it's a fancy-pants romantic place; there's a funky sense of humor to it. Owner Tucker Harris himself said he gets a kick out of a friend's description as "part art gallery, part library, part bordello."

Relaxed and not too noisy

My husband and I weren't celebrating anything, although a Friday on our own, without having to chauffeur kids, is always something to treasure. And when I open a menu like the one at Tucker's, with about 10 well-chosen appetizers and entrees, it gives me hope that the chef is just waiting to lovingly make anything I order.

From the list of wines by the glass, we ordered a Guenoc California Claret (especially tasty) and a Markham Sauvignon Blanc, and perused the appetizers.

I had wanted my husband to taste the most unusual of the lineup, the Thai Shrimp Nachos. On a previous visit with friends, I had relished this exotic dish of crispy wontons topped with grilled shrimp, scallions, sweet red peppers and leeks in a coconut Thai red curry broth.

But for an appetizer, it's huge, and we wanted to taste as much as possible. My husband was won over by the description of the soup du jour, made with a country-style cabbage and tasso, a Cajun ham. It was deliciously earthy and spicy, yet light enough to whet the appetite for dishes to come.

I passed over the escargot, here braised in red wine, for another of my favorites: Seared Black Peppercorn Encrusted Beef Carpaccio, which at Tucker's is several satisfying thin slices of raw beef, heaped with arugula and fresh asiago cheese and drizzled with a delicious horseradish aioli.

The service, by Tucker himself, was chatty and leisurely. Good thing, because there's so much to look at in this restaurant. Between courses, we had time to admire how the twinkling chandeliers reflected off the mirrors sprinkled among the paintings, how the dishes were an eclectic collection of various china patterns, and the salt and pepper shakers were different on each table.

We could discuss all this, because unlike in some newer restaurants where it's cool to have to shout to be heard by your friends, the noise level at Tucker's is just right for conversation.

Even the bread basket was worthy of discussion: chicken wire folded into a basket and strung randomly with beads (the bread was perfectly warm and chewy).

Truly exciting entrees

Too often, the entree list at restaurants is the least interesting thing about the menu. Not here.

Chef Casey Shea and Sous-Chef BJ Minnis bring a creative streak to main courses. We debated: The Spiced Atlantic Salmon with Quince Compote? The Caramelized Sea Scallops with Morel Mushrooms? The Black Truffle Muscovy Duck Breast, marinated in brandy? The Curried Pumpkin and Autumn Squash served over basmati rice and toasted pumpkin seeds?

All worthy of a winter evening. But we settled on two opposites.

The first taste of the pork shank braised in bourbon and molasses elicited an appreciative "ooh!" from both of us. The tender meat sat impressively in the middle of a wide, shallow white bowl. It was surrounded by homemade spaetzle (a German version of pasta) and chunks of roasted root vegetables, which nicely soaked up the lovely reduced bourbon-molasses juice. Tucker says it's now served with pappardelle pasta.

We also ordered one of the evening's specials, Asian-Style Fried Rainbow Trout. A crispy-fried whole Idaho trout was showcased in a similar white shallow bowl. It lay atop a fragrant jasmine rice, perfect for the sweet garlic and chili glaze covering the trout. A surprise was the addition of kim chee, or Korean pickled vegetables, which gave the whole dish a fun zip.

Later, Tucker said it was the first time they'd tried that dish. It was a work of such yummy sophistication that if I were him, I'd be rewriting the menu to include this every day. I suppose it is nice, however, to see specials that really are special.

Homemade desserts

We asked to take some of the pork shank home so we'd have room for dessert, especially because the menu was labeled "Tucker's Homemade Desserts."

We could have had ginger ice cream with crystallized ginger, or strawberry and Key lime pie in a chocolate crumb crust with whipped mascarpone cheese, or a bittersweet chocolate raspberry truffle torte.

But we opted for a Chai Creme Brulee (didn't I tell you they have their thinking caps on?), which is the classic custard infused with black tea, spices and vanilla. It had the perfect hard, carmelized top, and it did indeed taste wonderfully of tea.

When we also ordered the Blueberry Bread Pudding, Tucker warned us it would take a few extra minutes in the oven. It turned out to be made with Portuguese sweetbread, plus fresh blueberries, Bourbon creme anglaise and fresh whipped cream.

Just as the entrees were not overbearing, the desserts were not cloying. So we had enough sweet tooth left to try the Homemade Baileys, as in the Irish cream liqueur. Speaking as a person who was involved in a taste test of 15 Irish Creams, Tucker's is delicious.

Next time, I'd like to try Tucker's Coffee, which is laced with his Homemade Baileys and Godiva Chocolate Liqueur and topped with whipped cream.

In warm weather, there are tables on the sidewalk and hanging plants everywhere. But on a cold night in Newport, there's no better place to be than inside this bistro, pretending you're on the Left Bank.

****

Details, details

Tucker's Bistro, 150 Broadway, Newport. (401) 846-3449. Dressy casual. Open every night at 6. MC, V, D. Appetizers cost $5.50 to $10.75; entrees $18.95 to $27.95; and desserts, $6. Wine list, $18-$95, most bottles around $25. Wheelchair accessible, but no handicapped rest rooms. Private room available. No high chairs. Smoking at the bar; no smoking on Saturday nights. Street parking.

****

If you like CAV and New Rivers in Providence or Trattoria Simpatico in Jamestown, you'll like Tucker's Bistro.

****

Bill of fare

The bill for two at Tucker's Bistro might look something like this:

2 glasses of claret.... $17

1 glass of Sauvignon blanc.....$6.75

Soup du jour....$5.50

Carpaccio.......$8.75

Bourbon and molasses pork shank....$22.95

Asian-style fried trout.....$20.95

Blueberry bread pudding........$6

Chai creme brulee....$6

Homemade Baileys....$6.25

Cappuccino...............$3.50

Tax: $8.30

Tip: $20

Total: $131.95

---

Tucker's Bistro