A New York-style deli right in Pawtucket

By GAIL CIAMPA
Journal Food Editor

• See the menu.

Imagine a restaurant critic walking into a deli, moseying up to the counter and ordering four sandwiches, a couple of side dishes, a bowl of soup and a variety of cold drinks. Then she says, "That's for here, not to go."

What a sight that table would be! Imagine the attention she might attract.

That is why critics take along other diners on restaurant reviews. While the goal is to be joined by people with varied and discerning tastes, what is vital is for the critic to try as many things as possible.

Ultimately, the reviewer is the judge, but having others there allows the critic to not draw attention from management so the place can be judged fairly. Plus, you'd look ridiculous sitting at a table with all that food.

That's why I piled three colleagues into the car on a rainy Tuesday last week and took them to Pawtucket to dine at the Local Hero Deli. They were all good sports, but I could tell enthusiasm was not high for this outing. It was a deli, not a bistro or steakhouse I had promised them.

This made the results all the more sweet when we enjoyed some genuinely amazing sandwiches.

I had the Cape Codder. It had probably half a pound of freshly roasted turkey piled on sliced Italian white bread. It had homemade cran-mayo, a blend of cranberry and mayonnaise, and a light offering of American cheese. I paid extra, 75 cents, for stuffing. This was Thanksgiving in a sandwich. It was delicious, huge and very clever indeed.

Still, I couldn't resist picking at the Texas beef barbecue sandwich that was a special and ordered by another. The meat was tender roast beef that was smoked in-house. It was served in a soft fresh bulkie roll. The barbecue sauce was mild -- an expert blend of brown sugar, ketchup, vinegar, Worcestershire Sauce and spices. But it was expertly applied so as not to overpower the meat.

The sandwich was accompanied by a cold sweet potato salad with raisins, which provided the perfect cool foil to the tangy smoked beef.

The third temptation on the table was called The Washington D.C., a tidy white wrap loaded with sliced teriyaki-marinated chicken tenders. It was served warm with cripy noodles, a touch of mandarin oranges, and water chestnuts. A delicate dressing, dominated by ginger, was slightly sweet and contrasted nicely with the crunch from the noodles. The sandwich was wrapped so tight it was possible not to make a mess eating it.

Packed with personality

Truth be told, we were charmed from the moment we entered Local Hero Deli. As tiny as the place is, it's packed with personality.

There are Coca-Cola bottles (as in real glass) in the drink case. A variety of newspapers, including The New York Times and Wall Street Journal, sit on the counter for customers to read. The mismatched chairs and tables give the deli a homey atmosphere.

Stepping out of the main room onto a glassed-in porch dining area, we saw a miniature winter wonderland display set up in the corner. It featured an ornamental yet operating toboggan run -- the sled comes down a hill, turns a corner, and reappears at the top for another run -- a mini skating rink and more.

The meals are served on mismatched plates of Corelle or the simple no-name variety.

Once ordering at the counter, food is delivered to the table, and leftovers packed up to go.

The Local Hero is 15 years old, run by chef Andrew Esposito and his sister, Laura, who is in charge of the business side and most days mans the cash register. Their mom, Marilyn, offers some homemade desserts, while dad Ronald tests the homemade soups daily. Other desserts include Anita's Cheesecake slices.

Andrew Esposito has mastered those soup specials. The chicken with rice served during our visit was full of tender chicken bites, carrots and celery. The broth was nearly clear, yet full of flavor. It was obvious the fat on this soup had been skimmed with great care.

A deli love affair

In an interview after the visit, Esposito said the idea for the Local Hero Deli came from his time in New York as a would-be actor. While other struggling thespians waited tables, he went into the kitchens and became a cook.

He also fell in love with New York deli restaurants and the giant Reuben sandwiches, fresh soups and daily specials. When he returned home -- the Espositos grew up in Lincoln -- he missed his neighborhood deli. So he opened one with his family.

He confirmed our observation that his clientele is as varied as his sandwich menu: from workmen and women on short lunch breaks to small-business owners. By putting out the newspapers, he sets a tone that you don't have to hurry but can make yourself at home.

He has suceeded in making the Local Hero Deli not only comfortable but a spot where hot and cold sandwiches are creative delicacies that delight the bored palate. Or you can try one of the day's billboard specials, such as two hot dogs with chips.

We also found a copy of a recent National Review magazine column, food for thought left regularly by Ronald Esposito to spur table conversation. As if talking about those great sandwiches wasn't enough.

****

Details, Details

Local Hero Deli, 4 Power Rd., Pawtucket (at merge with Smithfield Avenue). (401) 727-3459. Casual. Open Monday-Friday 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. MC, V, AE accepted with a 15 percent gratuity added. Sandwich menu $3.25 to $8; salads cost $2.90 to $7.25; soup menu $2.19 to $3.25; sides 90 cents to $1.75; soft drinks $1 to $1.75. Desserts $1.25 to $3. Wheelchair accessible doors, but there is no ramp and there are a few steps to climb to get into the building. High chairs available. Smoking in the porch room. Street parking. Free delivery to most of Lincoln, Providence, Pawtucket, Central Falls and North Providence between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m.

****

Bill of Fare

The bill for two at Local Hero Deli might look something like this:

Onion rings.... $1.75

Cup chicken rice soup.....$2.19

The Cape Codder sandwich with stuffing....$8

The Washington D.C. sandwich ...$7.50

Stewart's Key Lime soda ..... $1.75

Tazo Plum Delicious Juiced Tea ..... $1.75

Tax: $1.61

Tip: $3.45

Total: $28.

---

Local Hero Deli