A warm embrace on Federal Hill

By GAIL CIAMPA
Journal Food Editor

• See the menu.

It was one of those crazy Saturday nights in the city. Traffic was backed up in every direction. Cars getting off Route 95 at Atwells Avenue had to wait for the line to slowly snake up Federal Hill, where, it seemed, all of Rhode Island was dining.

Taking in the crowded scene, I wondered aloud about the chances we would be seated any time near our 8:15 reservation. Restaurants report that a 6 p.m. reservation on a Saturday night is easily the most booked dinner time of the week. Reserving a table for the next seating can be a risky undertaking if those early diners take their time clearing out, or if it's a busy night in the kitchen.

When I saw the crowds on the Hill, I just assumed our destination, Siena, would be in chaos. Stepping up to the restaurant, I could see the bar was crowded as could be and all the tables looked full.

But when my husband and I walked up to the hostess to announce ourselves, she told us cheerfully that our table was ready. We explained that our friends had yet to arrive, but that was no problem. She walked us to our table and suggested we enjoy a drink or appetizer while we waited for them.

From that moment on, we felt like we were the only people in Siena. That warm embrace stayed with us the whole night even as the restaurant bustled with crowds and diners coming and going.

Early on, there were sports fans around the bar watching an important baseball game. As they sat for dinner, another wave of diners came in.

When we left just before 11, menus were still being passed out.

Superior service

Even as busy as he was, our server never missed a beat. When we couldn't hear the specials over the noise, he kneeled at the table to make listening easier.

The rest of the staff was on the mark as well. Our water was promptly refilled and food delivered hot from chef/co-owner Anthony Tarro's kitchen. And when his brother and co-owner, Chris Tarro, stopped by to check in at the end of the meal -- as he did with every table I had observed through the evening -- I saw Siena as the warmest, most hospitable restaurant I've been to in a long time.

It's important to note that the food is expertly prepared, too.

By the time our friends arrived, we were happily sipping glasses of Prosecco, light Italian sparkling wine, nibbling from the bread basket and enjoying a wonderful sampling of Italian olives served on each table. We were also lustily perusing the menu with many Tuscan dishes.

Siena is named after the town in Italy that overlooks the Tuscan countryside. Tuscany is a favorite place of the owners.

Anthony Tarro studied Tuscan cooking in Bologna and is a RISD grad. Most of his career has been spent in local country-club kitchens.

Chris Tarro has a master's degree in business administration and studied economics in Milan. He worked on the business side of the food service industry.

Together, they appear to have a hit at Siena.

Layered flavors

From the first bite of Cozze e Vognole Stufate di Livorno, mussels and clams, we enjoyed the layered flavors that makes Tuscan food so simple and delicious.

The dish ($10) started with delightfully fresh Prince Edward Island mussels and local clams in a Tuscan tomato broth bursting with aroma and taste. It was all served over a thick slice of crostini that absorbed all the flavors of the broth.

The Calamari Fritti ($7) was a nice take on deep-fried calamari, with the squid nice and tender, and served with hot cherry pepper rings and a simple marinara.

I was glad we didn't try more appetizers, because my Gnocchi di Patate ($16) filled a very large white dish. Each bite was a revelation, with handmade dumplings blending potato and ricotta to keep them on the lighter side.

They were tossed with an arugula-and-spinach pesto that provided a rich foil for the pasta. Neither dough nor sauce overpowered the other. Wood-grilled yellow tomatoes were mild and offered just the right contrast to the sauce, made creamy with mascarpone and sprinkled with Parmigiano-Reggiano.

All the entrees offered large portions, nicely executed.

The Gamberi con Timo, shrimp with risotto, was also a stellar dish ($19). Four jumbo shrimp were sauteed and served over creamy risotto.

The Branzino was a delicious pan-seared Chilean sea bass ($25) finished with ocean scallops and a creamy scallion sauce. In an interview later, Tarro said he imports the large cut of deep-water fish at great cost. Chilean sea bass is actually a species known as toothfish, caught in southern ocean waters. Since the restaurant wants to keep most entree prices under $20, he isn't sure that dish can remain.

The evening's special was an osso bucco ($29) that was tender and done traditionally, full of robust stew flavor. It proved to me that Tarro can do meat, fish and pasta all with flair.

We also ordered a perfectly nice side of sauteed broccoli rabe ($4). But my favorite side dish was the Peas and Prosciutto ($4), baby peas sauteed with Prosciutto di Parma and big enough for two. The peas were the perfect texture, not mushy, and seared before blending with a little veal stock that imparts all the flavor.

Dough difficulty

My only disappointment at Siena was with the wood-grilled pizza and the one dessert we ordered. What they had in common was the dough: It wasn't tender enough.

The Margherita pizza ($10) had to be cut to be eaten in a civilized way, but was still too chewy to enjoy the fresh mozzarella or the sweet tomato sauce. The Scripelle con Gelato ($7) -- doughboys -- were dusted with cinnamon sugar and topped with Nutella, the chocolate spread, and served with vanilla ice cream. But when they were served with a steak knife, I knew this wasn't dough that would break easily into pieces. It didn't.

Because of the small space in the kitchen -- Siena is where L'Epicureo served before moving Downcity -- Tarro doesn't have room for a big mixer and buys the dough, he told me later.

But everything else in this restaurant is fine-tuned.

When I think back to making my reservation, I recall the hostess suggesting that time of 8:15 rather than 8 so they could best seat us. Some restaurants go for years without such organizational skills, never mind a new one that only opened in the spring.

Dining out shouldn't have to be a tradeoff: You love the food but hate the wait or crowds.

At Siena you can reserve a table, and love the food, too. And feel the warmth of being at a friend's house.

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Siena, 238 Atwells Ave., Providence, (401) 521-3311, www.sienaprovidence.com. Dressy casual. Reservations. Handicapped accessible. Highchairs. AE, V, MC, DIS, DC. Free valet parking. Open Monday to Saturday from 5 p.m., Sunday at 3 p.m. Late night bistro menu available at 10 p.m. Appetizers $5 to $9; entrees $13 to $29; desserts $5 to 7. Twenty wines by the glass $6-$9; bottles from $26 to $250.

***

Bill of fare

A dinner for two might look like this

2 glasses Prosecco ......$14

Calamari fritti ..........$7

Gnocchi...................$16

Gamberi con Timo (shrimp with risotto).....$19

Tiramisu .................$7

Food & drink total.........$63

Tax.......................$5.04

Tip.......................$13

Dinner total ..............$81.04

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Siena