Homestyle cooking is only part of T's charm

By GAIL CIAMPA
Journal Food Editor

• See the menu.

On a Tuesday at noon, I headed to T's Restaurant in Cranston for lunch.

The place was hopping. The service and atmosphere were warm and hospitable, the food most satisfying and the desserts delectable.

But I couldn't shake a feeling that I'd missed something.

I had. I'd missed breakfast.

As my friends and I ate our sandwiches, soup and salad, I spied plate after plate of pancakes, eggs and bacon delivered to tables all around us. Breakfast is served every day until 3 p.m. (Lunch goes until 4 p.m.)

Even though I'd wanted lunch that Tuesday, it was breakfast I ended up craving.

So back I went, another day at noon. Only this time I didn't rush past the breakfast dishes on the way to the lunch menu. Instead, I indulged my waffle-loving, bacon-craving side.

The breakfast dishes were just as pleasing and comforting as the lunch. But before leaving, I couldn't resist requesting a menu for the newly introduced dinner service.

And now I can't stop thinking about a turkey dinner or apple-orchard pork chops. But this review can wait no longer. It's time to reveal T's Restaurant as a little gem tucked in there on busy Park Avenue.

Not that crowds of people aren't already fans. The place seems to always be busy. Yet service is quick, allowing easy turnover of tables to get diners in and out.

A recent renovation has doubled the space, with a new dining room and breakfast bar. But none of the charm of Tina and Tony Tomaselli's restaurant is lost. It just wraps around more people.

With solid homestyle cooking in a new open kitchen, moderate prices, big portions, a wide variety of dishes, and friendly staff all around, T's is a great place to gather and feed body and spirit. On both visits, I saw parties, both small and large, enjoying the food and each other's company. The energy is high, in a joyful, conversational way, with diners engaged both in eating and gabbing.

Ample, flavorful sandwiches

On my first visit, Tony Tomaselli greeted and seated our party. (He doesn't know me, but I recognized him.) He mentioned that it was Tuesday and we should consider the corn chowder. It's the best, he said.

He was correct. It was addictive, with a perfect combination of corn, red potatoes and celery in a rich, creamy broth dotted with bacon. I choose not to imagine the calories with all that butter and cream.

On both visits, I was served by Melanie -- quick, pleasant, friendly Melanie. She never made us wait for a thing, and chatted when appropriate. She is capable of that quality so hard to find -- she made us feel like we were her only table, though she had many.

Before we knew it, the sandwiches arrived, large and nicely executed. The sides were well above average and elevated each dish.

A California Ranch wrap offered aromatics and flavor with smoked turkey anchoring sauteed onions and mushrooms, apple-smoked bacon, Monterey Jack cheese and a mild ranch dressing wrapped in an herb tortilla. It should be shared by two, as it comes with a good-size serving of an al dente penne pasta salad.

The Cuban panini isn't a Cubano sandwich but a baguette of pulled pork blended with cheddar cheese and a mild chipotle spread. But it's a tasty combination served, as requested, not with fries but potato salad (a nice red bliss potato variety with lots of texture and no sogginess) and a modern version of coleslaw with fresh, crunchy pieces of cabbage tossed lightly with a vinaigrette, not mayonnaise.

A chipotle bacon and chedder cheese burger was tender and juicy, topped with a spicy sauce and grilled onions on a sesame-seed bun. The French fries were hot, golden and had no oily aftertaste.

For dessert, apple crisp was served warm in a crock, but the standout dessert this day was a brownie sundae. It had two moist brownies topped with three scoops of ice cream and fudge sauce. We ended the meal as we began with the corn chowder -- addicted, taking one spoon after the next even though we wanted to stop.

Light-filled dining room

Before proceeding to breakfast, let's digest how the Tomasellis (Tony trained as an artist and Tina as a nurse) started with a little sandwich shop in 1982 on Budlong Road in Cranston and grew to the new, improved T's with three dining rooms.

T's reopened earlier this year after three months of renovations designed by Judd Brown. A new light-filled dining room, with Roman shades and awnings, is the most notable change. Tony's colorful artwork adorns the walls, save for the mural in the entryway, and a modern counter offers additional breakfast seating.

The parking lot was enlarged, though it still isn't big enough for the crowds. There's street parking around the Cranston High School East field next door.

On my second visit, I gave in to the aromas of breakfast and enjoyed a perfect Belgian waffle, crispy on the outside, soft and steaming on the inside, served with an extra dollop of butter, as requested, and a sprinkle of powdered sugar. My side of bacon wasn't crispy enough for me but I found plenty of takers among my companions.

Three huge pumpkin-spiced pancakes had enough sweetness to be part breakfast, part dessert. A confetti omelet -- made with three large eggs and sweet red peppers and green bell peppers plus diced ham, red onions and cheddar cheese -- filled a plate all on its own.

The home fries were crunchy, just as I like them, wonderfully spicy on the outside and creamy on the inside.

New dinner menu

The breakfast portions were ample enough to be served for dinner. But they aren't.

A brand new dinner menu includes appetizers (chili, skewered shrimp and antipasto for two); soups (Italian wedding); salads (spinach, tenderloin and Caesar); burgers; Italian specialties (veal and chicken parmesan, ravioli and gnocchi); fish (baked scrod, encrusted salmon, swordfish and lobster roll); poultry (turkey, roast chicken and pollo pesto) and meats (filet mignon, sirloin).

The menu was put together by the Tomasellis with executive chef Raymond Andolfo, and the new pastry chef of three months, Patti Martella.

With a new wine and beer license, guests can have a glass of red or white to accompany the dinner entrees.

But I'll still take hot chocolate with my waffles for breakfast -- or lunch.

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T's Restaurant, 1059 Park Ave., Cranston, (401) 946-5900, www.tsrestaurantri.com. Casual. Free parking lot. Handicapped accessible. Highchairs. Open Monday through Thursday 6:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 6:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Breakfast served daily until 3 p.m. Lunch served Monday to Saturday until 4 p.m. Dinner until closing. Sunday open 6:30 a.m.-3 p.m. MC, V, DIS, AE. Take-out menu available. Breakfast meals $4.29 to $6.99; luncheon sandwiches $4.59 to $9.89; dinner entrees $7.69 (baked scrod) to $22.89 (filet mignon). Desserts $3.69-$4.99. Children's menu $3.49-$3.89. Wine and beer available for dinner.

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A lunch for two at T's might look like this

Coke ......$1.59

Coffee......$1.50

Bowl of soup of the day ....$3.79

Chipotle burger .................$7.29

Cuban panini .................$6.79

Brownie sundae ..............$4.99

Total food and drink .........$25.95

Tax ................................$2.08

Tip ..................................$5.20

Total bill ...........................$33.23

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T's Restaurant