Journal photo / Sandor Bodo

Rigatoni Quattro Formaggi was cooked perfectly al dente and covered in a heavenly combination of cheeses and sauces; in the background is the pear and arugula salad.

The lowdown on lunch at Capriccio
You get the same cozy atmosphere and great food with smaller portions and lower prices

By GAIL CIAMPA
Journal Food Editor

Over the years, I've had many friends who adored Capriccio. One was a regular who liked to try new places but always returned when she wanted to be guaranteed a fine meal with exceptional service.

But I'd also heard from other friends who came away less than enthused with the Old World atmosphere that makes Capriccio almost feel like a men's club. Jackets are still very much de rigueur.

Last week over dinner, still more friends were discussing their deep affection for Capriccio. So I resolved to find out for myself.

I invited three never-been-to-Capriccio friends, J, B and C, to join me for lunch. All were anxious to dine at such a Providence institution. They all knew where it was -- the sign is prominent at the corner of Pine and Dyer streets. But they were surprised to learn the restaurant is below street level.

That's just one of a few misconceptions that loom in the Capriccio legend.

Beyond a coat-check station, a long flight of stairs takes guests down to a fireplaced dining room. The walls are lovely, all exposed stone and brick. The floor is a smoothed-out cobblestone. Windows sit high on the wall, bringing in light but ensuring privacy.

The atmosphere this creates is grotto-like. I felt as if I were dining in a wine cellar -- and I liked it. It's a big part of Capriccio's charm.

Mirrors on a wall separating the dining room from a second fireplaced room make the place seem larger than it is. But the tables and comfortable high-back chairs seem to allow enough space for privacy.

The room was warm and inviting, tastefully decorated for Christmas with festive lights and greenery. Christmas music played on, especially a Barbra Streisand tune that repeated many times in a row before J asked our server, Dave, to fix it.

Award-winning wine

Capriccio annually receives a Wine Spectator award honoring its collection of more than 550 wines from France, Italy and California. But perusing the wine list, I saw only bottles.

Dave recited the list of available glasses, and it was short: Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, White Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and a few Italian choices including one I tried -- Banfi Centine, a Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend. I was surprised that the list wasn't written down for diners to mull over before making a decision.

I asked marketing director Vincent Cimini about it in a phone call after my visit. He said the list changes so often, they just don't commit it to paper. Owner Vincenzo Iemma is always tweaking the by-the-glass list, he said, looking for the best selections.

The bread basket was perfect, with breadsticks, an Italian loaf and multi-grain slices.

The lunch menu offers many of the same seafood, pasta and meat dishes as the dinner menu, but the prices are lower. The portions were all quite filling, and those portions get larger for dinner, Cimini noted.

We opted to start with salads and soup. C's lobster bisque was nicely appointed with bits of tasty lobster in the creamy and smooth broth. Chef Nino D'Urso roasts the lobsters before making the bisque which adds to the complexity of the taste.

J's arugula and pear salad was a delightful beginner, fresh greens tossed with sliced pears in a red wine vinaigrette with a topping of dried ricotta. The saltiness of the cheese contrasted nicely with the acidic bite of the arugula.

B's garden salad was topped with shredded radishes and carrots, which made for a nice presentation. There were fresh mushrooms, black olives and cucumbers scattered under a pleasing raspberry vinaigrette. He was happy to see no onions even though he forgot to ask that they be eliminated.

My Caesar salad was a classic with seasoned focaccia croutons on crisp romaine lettuce topped with lots of fresh Parmesan cheese. It was large enough to be a nice lunch.

On to the entrees

J's halibut Francese ($15.95) offered two fillets, egg-battered and sauteed in lemon butter sauce. The fresh fish -- with a good texture, though not flaky light -- comes with mashed potatoes presented in a shell design. The consistency was more potato than cream, but it made a nice foil for the buttery halibut. Sauteed spinach was just the right green to add color to the plate and complement the dish.

B opted for seafood as well, ordering the Scampi Capriccio ($15.95). Three expertly prepared jumbo shrimp are butterflied on a bed of thin capellini. The sauce was a nice blend of garlic, butter and white wine. A light touch helped keep the pasta from getting soggy under its weight.

C, a Bolognese fan, enjoyed shells Bolognese di Vitella ($14.95). The sauce was a delicate version, with ground veal wrapped in a tasty marinara. The shells are a perfect vessel to capture ever bit of the meaty sauce.

I smelled my Rigatoni Quattro Formaggi ($13.95) before I saw it. The aroma was overwhelmingly smoked, and it only increased my anticipation. The big tubes of rigatoni were cooked perfectly al dente and covered in a delightful blend of fresh and smoked mozzarella, gorgonzola and Parmigiano-Reggiano. A pink sauce added even more creaminess, a pairing made in cheese heaven.

Wellington and Chateaubriand

This lunch only made me want to return to try more of the menu. And that brings me to another common Capriccio misconception.

Though there are many Northern Italian specialties, the focus includes classic dishes such as beef Wellington and Chateaubriand Bearnaise. Caviar and foie gras are as likely to be offered as Angus tips sauteed with onions and mushrooms in a Barolo-Porto wine sauce, or tenderloin tips Stroganoff served with spaetzle. Chef D'Urso, a native of Sorrento, Italy, also cooked in Bermuda.

Because the menu is so full of temptation, it's no surprise we were lured to see the lunch through to the end. The day's desserts included three housemade choices, including tiramisu. We tried two: a Lemon Bavarian Torte ($6.95) and chocolate mousse ($4.95).

The mousse was seriously chocolatey and served in a martini glass with whipped cream. Though it was satisfying, the lemon torte drew all the forks. A layer of bouncy sponge cake was topped with a creamy lemon mousse and fluffy frosting on top. Delicate ladyfingers lined the edge. Lemon is the most refreshing palate cleanser after a meal.

Walking around to see the rest of Capriccio after the meal, I found the large lounge toward the back playing louder, different Christmas music. Across the bar I saw cable-TV food-show host Joe Zito. Add him to the list of Capriccio fans.

It's not hard to see why. All the food is well executed and full of flavors that please the palate. From great bread to a tart dessert, with rich pasta sauces and fresh fish in between, there is nothing amiss in chef D'Urso's kitchen.

I imagine the grotto-style rooms must wrap around regulars like a cocoon, offering comfort and fine dining and a place where the staff all know their names.

Indeed, Cimini noted that though Capriccio was conceived as a white-linen special-occasion restaurant 29 years ago, it has become an annex for many who work or live in Providence. They see it as their spot for a business lunch or weeknight dinner.

That's no doubt how Capriccio made it onto so many lists of favorites and why it stays there.

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Capriccio Restaurant, 2 Pine St., Providence, (401) 421-1320, www.capriccios.com. Fine dining. Reservations accepted. Not handicapped accesible. Valet parking. Highchairs. AW, DC, DIS, MC, V. Serving Monday through Thursday 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Friday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday 5 to 11 p.m. and Sunday 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Appetizers $11.50 to $74.50 for caviar; entrees $19.95 to $62.95 for Chateaubriand; desserts $7.50 to $7.95. Extensive wine list; half a dozen wines by the glass with most $7.50.

***

A lunch for two at Capriccio might look like this:

2 glasses Banfi wine ......$15

Pear and arugula salad.........$5.95

Lobster bisque ................$5.95

Shrimp Capriccio ..............$15.95

Rigatoni Quattro Formaggi .....$13.95

Lemon Bavarian torte...........$6.95

Total food and drink ..........$63.75

Tax ........................... $5.09

Tip ............................$13.

Total bill .....................$81.84